Carbide tipped stone chisels

Starting out as a mason, I wanted to forge my own chisels. That's how I got started in Blacksmithing. Over the years I have worked hard through trial and error to replicate the chisels of the late Chris Jenkins. We have been able to produce a high quality chisel that holds up (as well as can be expected) to the daily abuse of the masons hammer. We forge three styles, the Cutter or tracer, the Pitcher, and the chipper style. These are the only TRULY hand forged carbide tipped stone chisels that I am aware of. These are not forged in a dye with a press, these are actually individually forged on the anvil. If you are a mason that can appreciate the hard work that goes goes into a truly hand made product, give these chisels a try. I can also replace a broken carbide (it happens) at a fraction of the cost of a new chisel. chisels can be customized with stamped initials as well. 

Locally known as the "cutter" aka tracer. this chisel tends to be a universal chisel for many stone masons that don't care to carry a (heavy) variety of chisels. I tend to use the 1" and 1.25" for flagstone and detail work, great for facing thinner pieces like 2" to 2.5" treads, caps and hearth stones. nice for coming "in" (from the side) on your corners when chiseling flagstone, so you don't knock your corner off. It's a great way to give yourself a little cushion before introducing the heavier shock of the pitcher. I use my 1.5" cutters for cutting strip stone and other full bed depth material to length and also for pillow facing. depending on the combination of chisel angle and location on the rock, it can work well for cutting straight through, pillow facing, and also removing knobs.

This is a Pitcher style chisel. For some masons, this is the one chisel of choice. Depending on the angle you hold it, it can face a rock nicely, but it can also back cut, (a trait specific to the pitcher) which is nice when working flagstone or when looking for a dished out facing on large rock. The pitcher reduces the the possibility of knobs on the sides making tighter fitting joints faster. When working with strip stone, I sometimes will chisel in from the face on the left and right sides back-cutting where the head (vertical) joints will be, reducing the amount of time it takes to get the tight and consistent joints that I desire. It can be used for squaring up and tuning up edges and corners. You can get a wider variety of finishes on the faces with this chisel but it is not ideal in my opinion for cutting stone for length. I prefer to have different chisels for different situations, and this one does have it's limitations.

This is the Chipper style. It has been a highly requested item lately in Colorado. It lends itself well to facing, light scaling, and knob removal. I do not recommend using it to cut rock for length stick to conservative amounts of material removal.